It is not hyperbole both when I clarify the travesty as a leading one, Van Cleef & Arpels as well as Piaget are often missing brand discussion pages on the a variety of watch forum platforms.That said and in all fairness, brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and to some lesser extent Piaget have pigeon-holed themselves in the bejewelled luxury watch section without fault of their own- They often make many high horology watches so frequently decked in the nice stones that renders the timepiece financially (and genderly) out of reach for all but the most ardent fans but honestly, if one claims to be a watch aficionado or WIS, you sit up and pay attention to Van Cleef & Arpels because they are seriously producing seriously fantastic mechanical timepieces, made possible with the cooperation of a number of the most gifted watchmaking geniuses of our time.What does it take to obtain a man excited to write about a woman’s watch? This is not a watch destined for some time in my wrist, but that I truly enjoy the artistry, design, and technical features which make for a remarkable high complication women’ watch.While highly comprehensive, hand-crafted dials mixed with animated complications aren’t brand new to Van Cleef & Arpels, the firm ups the ante a bit with every new version. Every one of these watches exists in the brand’s coveted “Poetic Complications” family of products whose purpose would be it combine traditional watchmaking techniques with emotionally-charged dial screens aimed at being entertaining and eye-pleasing rather than offering functional enhancements.In other words, Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Complication watches are not trying to be tool watches, but instead beautiful machines (mostly for women).Recall back to 2012 once I went hands with all the Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Wish place that I feel really well illustrates the Poetic Complication theme such timepieces are going for.
Because this girls watch is 8 mm smaller in diameter than its older sibling, a brand new movement and module were a necessity. Obviously, the new once again hunted van der Klaauw’s creative genius in the making of this new watch. Using a Val Fleurier automated base, van der Klaauw worked his magical creating an exclusive module for the women’s wonder.With a reduced diameter, the attention for the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Planetarium watch was obviously on complex elegance without clutter. The problem: how to interpret the moving planets on a bigger dial and sill make a visual effect. The answer: fewer planets installed on separate midnight-blue aventurine rings in concentric circles.In the middle of the watch is really a pink gold sun, which is surrounded by the three closest planets that actually rotate in real time. Closest to the sun is Mercury, depicted using a pale pink mother-of-pearl orb, and rotating around sunlight on the dial every 88 days. The Earth also has its own moon depicted as a diamond orb.
With the tremendous number of new timepieces we are presented with our annual pilgrimage into SIHH, it is inevitable that we’ll miss getting information on some of them to our subscribers in a timely manner. In this case, within a year has passed since we had been first introduced to the Van Cleef & Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs, a fact we were reminded of when we saw it while seeing VC&A in Geneva.This is in no way to indicate a lack of interest on the part; quite the contrary. While VC&A is more commonly famous for their jewelry and women timepiece collections, exactly what we discovered with this tasteful gent’s timepiece has been an incredible comprehension of sophisticated men’s design, as well as an impressive mechanical capability. Since 1949, VC&A has offered men’s timepieces, yet this bit reflects a serious departure for the fabrication. When most bits in the Pierre Arpels collection are comparatively easy two hand layouts with manually wound motions, the Van Cleef & Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs (which translates to “Time Here & Time Elsewhere”) is the initial double time complication, also comprising a automatic movement with dual jumping digital hour display and retrograde minutes.Utilizing a platinum micro-rotor movement specially developed for Van Cleef by Agenhor, the watch carries a giant step forward in relation to mechanical modernity, all while maintaining a simple elegance in style. Housed in a brightly polished white gold instance sized at 42mm, the complicated piece features a comparatively plain dial layout, including double electronic hour screens at 5 o’clock and 11 o’clock and one retrograde minutes register fitted across the left side of the dial in between. The middle of the dial comes with a subtle piqué theme, and the name of this timepiece is spelled out in blue opposite the minutes register.
French is a funny language, and I’ll admit that even when translated into English I often have trouble understanding it. That’s because so much of French is about “in-speak,” or otherwise a set of agreed upon meanings to otherwise untranslatable cultural terms. I first began to encounter this while spending a lot of time in France and Switzerland trying to decipher menus at restaurants. There seemed to be a local meaning to terms, so that when translated into English they still didn’t make sense.
As a non-French speaker I find that the term “cerfs-volants” which means kites to be a shining example of what I am talking about. The term means “kites” in English, but the individual words seem to translated into “flying deer.” So you’d just have to know that “flying deer” actually means kites in French. If I am missing something here by all means fill in my cultural void. Anyhow, this leads me to some extremely French, and extremely Van Cleef & Arpels “Cerfs-Volants” watches as part of their Extraordinary Dials collection of timepieces.
Saturn’s revolution takes the maximum of those six, 29 years; Mercury’s the shortest, 88 days. Time is indicated by a shooting-star symbol rotating round the dial’s circumference. The watch comes with a whimsical feature: you can choose a day as the lucky day and then rotate the bezel until the red pointer is aligned with this day on the graduated calendar. When the day arrives, the Earth symbol (the blue sphere) will be directly beneath the celebrity that’s outlined on the watch’s crystal.The world module was designed by Christian van der Klaauw, renowned for his moves featuring astronomical signs. The movement is self-winding and contains 396 components. The case is 44 millimeters in diameter and made of gold. The dial is made from aventurine and the planets of semiprecious stones. Price: about $245,000; a diamond-set version (under) will be about $330,000. The understated, elegant appearance that’s come back into fashion in men’s watches over the last few years is on display in the men’s apparel watch introduced by watch-and-jewelry maison Van Cleef & Arpels at this season’s SIHH watch fair: the Pierre Arpels, named after a boy of the new co-founder, is a modern version of a wristwatch that Arpels created for himself in 1949.
The Pierre Arpels is available in rose gold (pictured) or white gold, and also in versions using diamond-set bezels. The rose-gold bits are $15,500 (38 mm), $18,200 (42 mm), $33,500 (38 mm( with diamonds), and $40,700 (42 mm, with diamonds). However, when you come across a watch like the Midnight Planétarium from Van Cleef & Arpels, you are forced to pause. You are forced to pause and think about the elegant interplay of mechanisms and artistry exemplified by a timepiece similar to this, in which a tiny solar system revolves round a dial in true stability. If you stared in this watch for 29 years, you’d see Saturn create a complete revolution around the dial up. If you’ve got a couple minutes, then you’ll join us on a brief journey exploring just how the Midnight Planétarium arrived into be.In anticipation of SIHH 2018, Van Cleef & Arpels dropped the Lady Arpels Planétarium, a smaller variant of the Planétarium for men that the maison introduced and developed back in 2014. When I first heard about this piece, I was very excited to find a highly-complicated opinion that seemed like something I could really wear (if money were no object and/or I won the lottery). I was able to see that the bit in person yesterday and boy was it beautiful. Not only is that a more compact variant of these men’s Planétarium, it was also reworked particularly for female buyers. Let us see what this gem is about.
Each year, Van Cleef & Arpels, one of my favorite “emotional” makers of high-end items, chooses a theme for its various collections of new limited edition watches. This year saw a return to butterflies. I say return because it seems as though butterflies are pretty much always just around the corner when it comes to being inspiration for feminine items. And no, sadly butterflies around the world are not at all compensated for a widespread exploitation of their likeness.
Among a range of gorgeous butterfly-theme watches and jewelry items comes this unique set of four limited edition watches that take the concept of butterflies and transforms them into flying kites. It is an interesting and refreshing take on featuring the pretty insects in a manner I’ve not yet seen before. As is typical of these themed sets of watches from Paris-based Van Cleef & Arpels, a matching presentation box of equal effort is available if someone chooses to acquire all four watches.
There are also just two apertures displaying the date and month (in the bottom) and the year beside the crown, together with a secret to the planets (you know, in case you forget). The opinion is made in white gold and the bezel is set with diamonds and you can get it with either a blue alligator strap or a bracelet.For mepersonally, the dial is one of my favourite things. How can it not be?? The Aventurine in stunning to see in person along with the rings are so well laid it is almost impossible to observe the lines between these. The planets are so tiny it’s impressive. On the other hand, the craftsmanship of this jewelry/highly-complicated watch should come as no surprise to anybody. Van Cleef has been producing some of the most insane jewelry because the maison was set in 1898. What’s more, they’ve been leaders in the watch game because the 1930s and have been known to make some mad complicated parts of the years like Pont des Amoureux, which has seen great success. This Planetarium is no different. Instead of merely shrinking the opinion they removed some of the planets as well as the instance ring buttons and date/month sign on the outer ring. I understand that before I have said I could not see how this would be an everyday watch, but I must say after trying it and seeing how comfortable it is, I could definitely rock this with my daily uniform of sweaters and jeans (it is all about the high-low). On the other hand, the watch does come at a hefty cost — it is $245,000 on a strap or a diamond necklace for $330,000. It’s almost always a major travesty when manufacturers like Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Jaquet Droz do not get enough discussion simply because we overlook the intriguing calibres for the fairly Plique-à-jour enamel trees.
Just look at the amazing detail and hand-work on the box. The cabinet style wood box is beautifully painted and lacquered, decorated with imagery and inlays of mother-of-pearl. I honestly get just as excited to see these presentation boxes as I am to see the watches each year. You’ll notice just how large the box is as well.
The majority of the dial remains comparatively clean, with large regions of unused space finished in crisp lacquered white.In keeping with the design language of the rest of the collection, “T-Bar” lugs are fitted on top and bottom of this case, to which a complete grain black alligator strap is affixed. The front crystal and display back are made from sapphire, the latter providing view to the slender and striking motion, which also features piqué detailing to the rotor in blue. The crown is located at 3 o’clock and comes with a set-in brilliant cut diamond, a clear nod to the fabrication’s origins as a jeweler.Despite its elegant look, the Van Cleef & Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs does not give the impression of fragility when handling or wearing it. Despite its slender dimensions and “T-Bar” lugs (which are known for being flimsy in other applications), the gold instance has a remarkable quantity of heft, lending itself well to real-world use. While the timepiece clearly sits on the “dress watch” end of the spectrum, I would absolutely traveling with it around the wrist – supplied I was in the First Class cabin.The watch is amazingly comfortable on the wrist, using its heft reminding you of its existence as it tucks from underneath your cuff. Ironically, my experience with white gold has been less than fantastic. Since the softest precious metal, white gold does not hold up to any type of abuse nicely, therefore my preference here is for platinum. Regardless, with a fantastic design that pairs a fantastic size with hallmark historical design traits, this is not the kind of dress watch you forget you are wearing, and in my book it’s a winner.In an opinion shared by many, Van Cleef & Arpels are a master of their art, producing jewelry items and ladies timepieces which are… well, art.
Additionally there are two apertures displaying the month and date (at the base) and also the year next to the crown, together with a secret to the planets (you know, in case you forget). The watch is made in white gold and the bezel is set with diamonds and also you may get it with either a blue alligator strap or a bracelet.For mepersonally, the dial is one of my favorite things. The Aventurine in magnificent to see in person along with the rings are so well laid that it’s almost impossible to observe the lines between these. The planets are so tiny it is impressive. However, the craftsmanship of this jewelry/highly-complicated watch should come as no surprise to anyone. Van Cleef has been producing some of the very insane jewelry because the maison was set in 1898. What’s more, they have been leaders at the watch sport because the 1930s and are proven to create some crazy complicated pieces of the years such as Pont des Amoureux, which has seen great success. This Planetarium is no different. Instead of just shrinking the opinion they eliminated some of the planets as well as the case band buttons and date/month indication on the ring. To me this makes the watch look far more elegant on the wrist and surely simpler to wear.And it wears like a dream. I understand that before I have stated I couldn’t really see how this could be a regular watch, but I have to say after trying it on and seeing how comfy it is, I could definitely rock this with my daily uniform of jeans and sweaters (it’s all about the high-low). On the other hand, the watch does come at a hefty price — it is $245,000 on a strap or a diamond bracelet for $330,000. It is always a major travesty when manufacturers such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston and Jaquet Droz do not get enough discussion because we overlook the interesting calibres for the pretty Plique-à-jour enamel trees.